Life in Kyparrisia !

View from the boat at Oropos

Throwback blog from my early experiences in the Peloponnese
 Your friendly lunatic is having the absolute time of her life on a new adventure in gorgeous Greece.,  Our house is on the mountainside, overlooking 80 kilometres of beautiful unspoilt protected azure bay and golden beach, nesting site of  the wonderful loggerhead turtles who arrive in their thousands every summer to mate and lay  their eggs. We have three friendly  turtles in the harbour who pop up their heads to greet us as we arrive.  My evenings of late have been spent in gentle contemplation of the hazy horizon  and diverse incredible sunsets,   philosophically musing on the  phases of the moon, the myriad meanings of life  and the questionable wisdom of  daily ingestion of  calamari and fried cheese.

View from my veranda

The Greek G and T is a very pleasant pick-me-up  when fatigued from Too Much Eating, served with its own deep dish of deliciously crunchable sparkling ice with  the  gin measure poured with the same lavish abandon I use when pouring our olive oil onto  aubergines before baking !

Out at sea , the ‘teens’ we have four, plus their friends,   have splashed and jumped about  in the strong waves at the shore and swum merrily round the boat in deeper water taking artistic underwater photographs of their bikini tops, potential six packs  and feet.

Driving endlessly up and down sheer mountainsides in the searing heat  has sent us all slightly ideal state of mind for experiencing Euripides’ ‘Bacchae’  performed at the ancient ampitheatre of Epidauros  amidst a backdrop of sweet cypress and under a (probably) gibbous moon. Our seats were fantastic with comfy cushions  and we were able to surreptitiously and happily quaff our secret stash of wine.The young actors performed with such  vitality that the entire audience were stricken with the rhythmic vision and sound of  the semi naked, shrieking and writhing supporting chorus and a lithe  silver haired Dionysus  whose  divine arrogance unleashed Agave’s  inner howling shewolf  tearing apart   her own son and brandishing his head upon a pole in her alcoholic and frenzied bloodlust…  You can’t beat Greek Tragedy for extreme anguish…an excellent evening’s entertainment.

The mountain views and  sites of antiquity on our journey have been utterly  spectacular. Standing sentinel, the ancient hewn Cyclopean stones cradle the burial tombs  of Mycenean kings, whilst  the lush greenery is fed richly with  pure icy water, gushing  profusely from the sedimentary  limestone layers of the mountains, flowing  in translucent streams to milky bowls of jade in fabulous natural .pools such as the Kasarma and Neda waterfalls

Flowering aloe vera


The surrounding flora is redolent with aroma and character: fruiting banana  palms on the beach, toppling pineapple palms and fig trees around every corner. Aquiline Cypress standing tall against the landscape populate  the mountains and luminous bouganvilia, jaqaranda and oleander flowers line the roadside, with glistening orange , lemon, bergamot and lime trees along the walkways.  Squat and silvered olive trees speckle the panorama in every conceivable direction, and  produce the very best flavoured olives in all of Greece .

As for the herbs; bushels of basil and rosemary, lemon balm, peppermint, lemon verbena, sage, lavender , oregano, marjoram  and mountain tea perfume the air with delicious mixed aromas attracting beautiful yellow frittiliaries.  At our house, overgrown primordial agaves, untended for twelve years, had stretched their octopus tendrils  possessively across the path  and had to be  vigorously  chastened with  a serious chopping for their unseemly  growth.

Lavender in my garden

As for local fauna,  we have been captured  by a pride of feral  kittens and are now held hostage by the porch by  basking and draping  felines on our on window sills who cavort about our feet as we gingerly skip to the car, greeting  us with  an uncharacteristic boldness and body size due to  sentimental family members  feeding them unwisely large portions of Gourounopoulo pork and kit e kat treats…   Today we were given some  freshly laid eggs, we fried them for our lunch and ate them on the veranda…can’t get much better than that…

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